Introduction to Textile Tradition of India

Major Traditions & Style:

Silk and cotton weaving predominate the weaving traditions in India. Silk weaving is common in most parts of the country, important centers being Mysore, Assam, Banaras, Murshidabad, Surat, Kanchipuram and Paithan etc. There are numerous centers, which specialize in silk and cotton sari weaving. Some of the sari traditions which are popular are-Banarsi brocades, Maheshwari, Pochampalli, Kancheevaram, Patola, Paithani, Baluchari etc to name a few. The famous himroo and mushroo fabrics of Hyderabad are splendid examples of mixed fabric (cotton and silk). The mulberry silk which is largely produced in Assam is also a rare variety of silk used for making saree and traditional dress material. It's a traditional custom to wear mulberry silk outfit in the new year festival of Assam called bihu. This is a yellowish and brown colored delicate material produced from the mulberry silk cocoon which survives on mulberry tree leaves.

The tradition of Appliqué and embroidery is well known to Indians since ancient times. Punjab is famous for its Phulkari work, which is a rich form of Appliqué. Appliqué work from Kutchh region of Gujarat is also very ornate and is done on bright fabrics. It is also famous amongst the tribals of Orissa, Rajasthan and Andhra Pradesh. The city of Lucknow is world famous for its Chikan style of embroidery, so is the crewelwork from Kashmir. Gujarat, Punjab, Karnataka, Rajasthan and West Bengal all have their distinct styles of embroidery.

Tie and dye, hand printing and block printing are common across the country and come in numerous styles, influenced by local factors. The Tie and dye technique of printing in particular is popular in the arid and semi arid regions of the country where people prefer brightly coloured clothes. The states of Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh are main centers for block printing.